This week has been one of the most enjoyable and eye-opening experiences I've had so far in the school. Offices and institutions across Austria are closed Friday, 26 October in celebration of the National Holiday, which I wrongly assumed was similar to our Fourth of July. In a sense, the two holidays are very similar - both commemorate independence - but the manner in which they are observed is entirely different, and in Austria's case, it is due to an unfortunate history of being labeled. The topic came up when I showed the classes a picture I took from home, in which about 10 houses are shown along the beach, each flying the American flag. I had asked students why I only see the Austrian flag on government buildings, sometimes on big federal holidays, and the occasional football match, and their response was one of uneasy silence. After asking for over a week, not one student could tell me why they have the holiday on 26 October. To them, it is simply a day off. I was dumbfounded. I told them, you'd have a hard-pressed task ahead of you if you tried to find an American who couldn't explain the significance of the July 4th. Our Independence Day is a celebration of great joy and festivity, with parties, fireworks, parades, concerts, wearing red, white, and blue, and treasuring our citizenship. Here, nothing. A day off from work. By the way, the last Soviet soldier left Austria on 26 October 1955, marking the end of 10 years of Allied occupation after the Second World War. When I asked the students why they don't actually celebrate the 26th, the answer surprised me. One student raised his hand and said, "Austrians can never be as proud of Austria as Americans are of the United States, because to be patriotic here means the you are a Nazi. In our history, being patriotic has always been associated with being nationalistic and far-right, and because we hate when the world blames us for being proud Nazis, we do not bother showing love for Austria." There is such a deeply rooted association here with patriotism and Nazism (which is, I might add, founded), but still, the idea of not wanting to fly your flag, not celebrating your country, being indifferent to how you view your home because of what other people might say, is such a foreign idea to me, and it saddens me that people can still think that of Austria. After explaining the design of the U.S. flag, I asked someone, anyone to explain why the Austrian flag is the way it is. Silence. Legend has it that Duke Leopold V of Austria removed his belt after fighting the Siege of Acre in the Third Crusade. His tunic was white, but was covered in blood, so that only the spot where the belt lay remained that color. It has served as Austria's flag since 1230. That brought up the topic of Austrian national identity, which I think, is non-existent. Think about it. Less than 100 years ago, Austria was the center of continental Europe's largest empire, only to be reduced to 1/7th its land and population at the end of World War I. A failed republic lasted only a decade, to be replaced by a tyrannical nationalist state in the early '30s, before being absorbed into Greater Germany in 1938. 10 years of Allied occupation, which divided the tiny country into four territories, followed by a republic which stands today. In the 1970s, after a 20 years period of standing on its own, Austrians sensed the formation of what they hoped would be their unique identity, only to be thrown under the rug in the midst of European integration with the advent of the EU. Before globalization, Austria had never been just "Austria" for more than 10 years - no wonder they don't know who they are! Just fascinating, I think.
Otherwise, classes have been going really well. I'm still giving my introduction, but this week I've visited with many of the upper-level students, whose command of English is rather impressive. Yesterday, we had a great discussion about the role of the Church in Austria, and different aspects which the students find difficult to understand, such as contraception and abortion, the celibate priesthood, and possible reasons for ever-decreasing Mass attendance. It was a lively chat, with the class' full participation, and informative input. I enjoyed it quite a bit.
I had mentioned in the last post that I was assigned to present the students' desires to the teachers next Wednesday. Well, I told my mentor teacher that, and all Hell broke loose! I was planning on going to the German language conversation hour at the library, but that had to take a back seat to a meeting with the Direktor of the school, my mentor teacher, the teacher who asked me to speak at the conference, and a few other teachers who I did not know (and have no idea why they were present). Apparently, some people stepped on other people's shoes, asking me to come in on a day that the student's have off, and essentially asking me to teach the teachers how to teach English. To make a long story short, that's not in my job description, I don't have to go it, and unless someone wants to lose his life, I doubt I'll get asked to take on a similar task.
Monday night, the University and the Catholic Students' Org. sponsored a Quiz Night in German. The place was packed, and 8 of us participated. 2 teams were formed, and I don't think either one cared about competing against the other teams - it was a fight between our groups to the death, and a rather close one at that! It was challenging at times, but so much fun!
I've finished with my classes for the week, but tomorrow I do have my University seminar. It's incredibly interesting, but requires a lot of work that takes me all week to complete. On the up side, though, I think I've made a friend in the class with an Austrian, and the teacher has been kind enough to slow down when speaking and he tries not to fall into dialect, which is greatly appreciated. The content itself is depressing, to say the least. Some of the stories these Holocaust survivors tell are horribly vivid, and its trying to watch them recount their experiences, pausing and fighting back tears as they make their interview. I'm captivated by their stories, but man, it makes for a rough evening of watching.
James Bond releases in theaters here next week. This is one of many films I'm looking forward to this season, until I found out that they're dubbed into German. This is a sin. Bond requires a British accent. I asked my students how they cope with it, and somebody told me about a theater by the station that frequently views films in their original language. Fingers crossed!
It seems the weekend's welcome warm weather was, indeed, the end of it. It'll be cold soon, with snow predicted for Saturday. I bought a Harris Tweed cap yesterday, and tomorrow morning before class I'm on the quest for a loden coat.
My flat mate is a Colombian guitarist studying here at the conservatory. He recently had a bit of bad luck with his health, and lost feeling in his right hand for over a week, now requiring daily physical therapy to build up his arm's strength to be able to play. Well, he's a good patient. He's been playing the same 12 bars or so of the same song for nearly 3 weeks straight. I find myself whistling it while making dinner, taking a shower, or walking about town...and it drives me nuts! It's like that young pianist who knows the first page of "Für Elise" and plays it over, and over, and over (you know you know someone who does this!) Lord, grant me patience...
Wednesday, October 24, 2012
Sunday, October 21, 2012
Resplendent Change
The past few days have dispelled any notion I may have held last week that winter had wrapped its arms around Central Europe for good. Crisp autumnal air matched with warm sunlight, bright foliage, and nature's final sigh before the barrenness of winter to come is like, as Dickens once described, "listening to music in perfect rapture." There's a very tangible excitement, of the change of season, of a change of mind, of a change of focus. The prospect of change carries one away into his dreams, into a state of freshness and renewed energy - it's my favorite time of year, and with this characteristic fall weather comes a flood of emotions and memories, reminding me of just how incredible life has been and continues to promise to be.
Sweaters and plaid shirts, the scent of a wood-burning fireplace, the crunch of leaves beneath my feet, hot chocolate, apple picking with the family, pumpkin patches and earthy colors, seeing my breath in the morning air, brilliant stars at night, school in full swing, concert season, that difference in temperature between shadow and sunlight, growing hair just a bit longer, wool socks, and the way people tend to walk ever so slightly quicker, marking the beginning of the busy seasons a head - autumn.
Thursday evening, I celebrated my 23rd birthday. It is the first birthday I haven't been able to celebrate with my family, but in return, I had the distinct pleasure which I will probably never experience again, enjoying dinner with a dozen friends, all of them pretty girls. :-D We ate in a 400 year old Austria-cuisine restaurant on the bank of the Salzach. Naturally, I had Wiener Schnitzel, but I also tried this drink called Sturm, which is fermented grape juice on its ways to becoming wine. It's sweet, but not cloyingly so, and the alcohol is hardly detectable, which is dangerous! It's only sold a few weeks during the year, and is particular to this area of the continent. After dinner, a handful of us walked along the river to meet another friend who couldn't make it to dinner for drinks, which was also really fun. I have to say, one of the biggest worries I had before embarking on this European adventure was being lonesome, and the group of girls I've met here have helped in a few short weeks to place that fear furthest from my mind. They're an exciting, dynamic, friendly, sincere, and lovely bunch, and having become friends with them has been a saving grace, in many respects. Needless to say, that night I was on Cloud Nine.
Friday was hiking day. The Gaisberg, the tallest mountain within the city limits, is an old friend. It was a fairly warm day, and not having brought shorts with me to Europe, Lederhosen it was! Five of us challenged it, and, after just over 2 hours, it was conquered, with a much needed refreshment break at the summit! Sweat and muscle fatigue were worth it for the stunning views, the camaraderie, and the satisfaction of having climbed a mountain. In the evening, a friend and I went to a concert in the Festspielhaus, a concert hall built into the side of the Mönchsberg and home of the famous Salzburg Festival. For 12EUR, we had 4th row seats, dead center - not bad, eh? Ivan Fischer conducted his Budapest Festival Orchestra, one of my favorites, in fun music by Dvorak, Brahms, and von Dohnanyi. Brilliant performance. Walking home after the concert, it seemed like the whole of Salzburg had gone out to the theater, the opera, or a concert that evening. The cobblestone streets were filled with meandering people window shopping, sipping hot chocolate, or, just as I was, taking it all in. Salzburg is certainly one of the great Kulturstadt's in the world. There are few cities that I can think of, where the previous evening's opera production can make the front page of the newspaper, and be the source for a week's worth of conversation and debate. I'm right at home!
On Saturday, we had an expedition to the top of the Kehlstein, a picturesque mountain just across the border above the town of Berchtesgaden in a region called the Obersalzberg. Our destination: the Eagle's Nest. The last time I visited was 8 May 2011, which, coincidentally, was the anniversary of V-E Day, and I had the honor of being surrounded by veterans of E Company, 506st PIR, 101st Airborne Div., who actually captured the Eagle's Nest back in '45 - incredible! This time, however, was so laid back - it was perfect. It was one of the warmest days we've seen thus far, the clear skies gave views of the surrounding Alps and countryside for as far as the eye could see, and the foliage was radiantly colorful. Al fresco lunch among friends under the sun on top of the mountain with views to kill for. The Nazis may have been one of the most brutal regimes in recent memory, but whoa, can they pick a vacation spot! Throughout the war years, the Obersalzberg was reserved exclusively for the Nazi elite, who had palatial Alpine homes constructed into the mountainside. It is so incredibly beautiful there - gave me goosebumps again, just being there. After we finished up top, we took a mini-tour through Berchtesgaden's quaint Altstadt, taking in some of its small-town charm, and we met a 2 month old Jack Russell, who was maybe 8 inches long. It had to hop from cobblestone to cobblestone - adorable. It was a long day, though, and I think we all slept a bit on our return bus ride.
Today was a quiet Sunday spent in town. After Mass, I met up with a few friends and explored the Festung Hohensalzburg, a mountain-top fortress siting above Salzburg on the Mönchsberg. Again, the views were beautiful, and we learned quite a bit of Salzburg history along the way. Finished off the adventure with a Melange and Esterhazytorte at the famous Café Tomaselli, sitting on a balcony, overlooking the bustling square below.
Only 3 days of teaching this week, but still presenting my introduction to what seems like an endless schedule of "first" classes. I never thought of my life as entertaining enough to spend a lesson on it, but now, after 26 of the same lesson about myself, I think I'd rather watch paint dry than continue this for four...more...weeks. Truly, this school needs another teaching assistant for my position to be an effective learning tool for the students. But, I'm confident it'll all work out in the end. I am having a lot of fun being in the classroom, though. It's not only fun, but rewarding work, even if I do so only on a limited basis. I was also told last week that I should prepare a 20 minute presentation to do in front of the non-English teacher faculty, who will be required to teach English come next term. The presentation is supposed to be me explaining to the teachers what the students expect from them as English teachers - how I'm supposed to know what these students (most of whom I've not yet met) want is beyond me, but you've gotta roll with 'em, right? Another adventure, another lesson to be learned.
Sweaters and plaid shirts, the scent of a wood-burning fireplace, the crunch of leaves beneath my feet, hot chocolate, apple picking with the family, pumpkin patches and earthy colors, seeing my breath in the morning air, brilliant stars at night, school in full swing, concert season, that difference in temperature between shadow and sunlight, growing hair just a bit longer, wool socks, and the way people tend to walk ever so slightly quicker, marking the beginning of the busy seasons a head - autumn.
Thursday evening, I celebrated my 23rd birthday. It is the first birthday I haven't been able to celebrate with my family, but in return, I had the distinct pleasure which I will probably never experience again, enjoying dinner with a dozen friends, all of them pretty girls. :-D We ate in a 400 year old Austria-cuisine restaurant on the bank of the Salzach. Naturally, I had Wiener Schnitzel, but I also tried this drink called Sturm, which is fermented grape juice on its ways to becoming wine. It's sweet, but not cloyingly so, and the alcohol is hardly detectable, which is dangerous! It's only sold a few weeks during the year, and is particular to this area of the continent. After dinner, a handful of us walked along the river to meet another friend who couldn't make it to dinner for drinks, which was also really fun. I have to say, one of the biggest worries I had before embarking on this European adventure was being lonesome, and the group of girls I've met here have helped in a few short weeks to place that fear furthest from my mind. They're an exciting, dynamic, friendly, sincere, and lovely bunch, and having become friends with them has been a saving grace, in many respects. Needless to say, that night I was on Cloud Nine.
Friday was hiking day. The Gaisberg, the tallest mountain within the city limits, is an old friend. It was a fairly warm day, and not having brought shorts with me to Europe, Lederhosen it was! Five of us challenged it, and, after just over 2 hours, it was conquered, with a much needed refreshment break at the summit! Sweat and muscle fatigue were worth it for the stunning views, the camaraderie, and the satisfaction of having climbed a mountain. In the evening, a friend and I went to a concert in the Festspielhaus, a concert hall built into the side of the Mönchsberg and home of the famous Salzburg Festival. For 12EUR, we had 4th row seats, dead center - not bad, eh? Ivan Fischer conducted his Budapest Festival Orchestra, one of my favorites, in fun music by Dvorak, Brahms, and von Dohnanyi. Brilliant performance. Walking home after the concert, it seemed like the whole of Salzburg had gone out to the theater, the opera, or a concert that evening. The cobblestone streets were filled with meandering people window shopping, sipping hot chocolate, or, just as I was, taking it all in. Salzburg is certainly one of the great Kulturstadt's in the world. There are few cities that I can think of, where the previous evening's opera production can make the front page of the newspaper, and be the source for a week's worth of conversation and debate. I'm right at home!
On Saturday, we had an expedition to the top of the Kehlstein, a picturesque mountain just across the border above the town of Berchtesgaden in a region called the Obersalzberg. Our destination: the Eagle's Nest. The last time I visited was 8 May 2011, which, coincidentally, was the anniversary of V-E Day, and I had the honor of being surrounded by veterans of E Company, 506st PIR, 101st Airborne Div., who actually captured the Eagle's Nest back in '45 - incredible! This time, however, was so laid back - it was perfect. It was one of the warmest days we've seen thus far, the clear skies gave views of the surrounding Alps and countryside for as far as the eye could see, and the foliage was radiantly colorful. Al fresco lunch among friends under the sun on top of the mountain with views to kill for. The Nazis may have been one of the most brutal regimes in recent memory, but whoa, can they pick a vacation spot! Throughout the war years, the Obersalzberg was reserved exclusively for the Nazi elite, who had palatial Alpine homes constructed into the mountainside. It is so incredibly beautiful there - gave me goosebumps again, just being there. After we finished up top, we took a mini-tour through Berchtesgaden's quaint Altstadt, taking in some of its small-town charm, and we met a 2 month old Jack Russell, who was maybe 8 inches long. It had to hop from cobblestone to cobblestone - adorable. It was a long day, though, and I think we all slept a bit on our return bus ride.
Today was a quiet Sunday spent in town. After Mass, I met up with a few friends and explored the Festung Hohensalzburg, a mountain-top fortress siting above Salzburg on the Mönchsberg. Again, the views were beautiful, and we learned quite a bit of Salzburg history along the way. Finished off the adventure with a Melange and Esterhazytorte at the famous Café Tomaselli, sitting on a balcony, overlooking the bustling square below.
Only 3 days of teaching this week, but still presenting my introduction to what seems like an endless schedule of "first" classes. I never thought of my life as entertaining enough to spend a lesson on it, but now, after 26 of the same lesson about myself, I think I'd rather watch paint dry than continue this for four...more...weeks. Truly, this school needs another teaching assistant for my position to be an effective learning tool for the students. But, I'm confident it'll all work out in the end. I am having a lot of fun being in the classroom, though. It's not only fun, but rewarding work, even if I do so only on a limited basis. I was also told last week that I should prepare a 20 minute presentation to do in front of the non-English teacher faculty, who will be required to teach English come next term. The presentation is supposed to be me explaining to the teachers what the students expect from them as English teachers - how I'm supposed to know what these students (most of whom I've not yet met) want is beyond me, but you've gotta roll with 'em, right? Another adventure, another lesson to be learned.
Monday, October 15, 2012
Adding Spice to My Life
Once again, it's raining here in this small city on the Austro-German border, at the foot of the Alps. Flowers are dying, leaves and chestnuts fall to the earth, blanketing the ground with a colorful layer of decay. Warm jackets and scarves are worn, the scent of wood-burning stoves fills the cold afternoon air, softly lit rooms along the way illuminate the sidewalks below, and Gluhwein, a traditional warm cider, has begun to be sold in the market. Autumn seems to have escaped this corner of the world, and the days rapidly grow colder, and darkness falls earlier each day. And, as the seasons change, so, too, do the people switch from being outdoor adventurers and al fresco diners to concert and museum goers and almost permanent residents of their favorite tavern or café, occupying the same table each visit, surrounded by friends, sharing laughter, memories, and warmth. It's a rather beautiful transition, I must say, and one I think that often occurs unnoticed.
This past weekend, I found myself hours away in an exotic nation, exploring a culture for the first time. Hungary shares an intimate history with Austria, having been joined in the double-monarchy, ruled by members of the Habsburg family from the mid-19th Century through the First World War. It's another country steeped in history, and with its own rich traditions. Its landscape and general feel is very different from that of Austria, and is immediately discernible upon crossing the border. It's a remarkably flat country, covered in the very grain fields that earned Hungary's reputation as the breadbasket of Central Europe. Hungarians are generally poorer than Austrians, having suffered tremendous losses to its operational power in the Treaty of Versailles, existing under the tyrannical pro-Nazi Horthy regime during the war years, and a mundane existence under the subsequent communist regimes. Though the Iron Curtain collapsed nearly 25 years ago, Hungary is still marred by its recent history, though, its trying to resurrect itself to the prosperous state it once enjoyed before the Kingdom disintegrated.
My journey began Thursday evening with a train ride to Vienna after a day of class and teaching. An early departure brought us to the quaint city of Eisenstadt in Austria's easternmost and most economically burdened province of Burgenland. After a guided tour of one of the few remaining Austrian synagogues and a walk through the former Jewish ghetto, we set out for St. Margarethen im Burgenland, previously a checkpoint between the East and West. In a historical event, the Austrian Fulbright Commission met with its Hungarian counterpart on the Austro-Hungarian border, marking the first time the two educational organizations held a joint event. Our location was significant because it was the site of the Pan-European Picnic, months before the end of the Cold War, where the border was temporarily opened. One of the men with us was actually the ranking Hungarian representative at the event, and gave an emotional account of the day's events. In one particularly poignant part, he told us of how a motorcycle carrying a couple and their two children sped towards the checkpoint with utter fear in their eyes, not knowing whether they'd make it to freedom in the West, or be stopped by the guards for not having proper documentation. As they approached, the guards turned their backs, as if they were not aware of what was about to happen, and eventually allowed hundreds and hundreds of Easterners escape to Austria. I cannot imagine the world as it must have been then - living under a regime so terrible that you were literally locked in your own country, risking being shot on any attempt to leave. Seeing those who lived through it reflect on the moment they gained their freedom, as I did with this Hungarian diplomat, can make your knees quiver. There is such emotion, such pain and such joy, in their eyes that you can't help but appreciate the freedom that we enjoy.
The next day, we toured Sopron just inside Hungary. A quiet, small city, but not really memorable. From there, we were invited to join the Hungarians on a tour of the Archabbey of Pannonhalma, a Benedictine monastery over 1,000 years old, and final resting place of the heart of Archduke Otto von Habsburg, the son of the last Emperor of Austria and King of Hungary, Karl. Then, onward to Budapest, the capital city and co-capital of Austria-Hungary. We arrived after nightfall, and wow! The city is absolutely magnificent, with all the major buildings and residences illuminated, separated by the Danube. A West Point history professor took us Austrians under his wing and guided us through the city's metro system, showing us some of the city's highlights along the way. We ended up having a nearly 5 hour dinner with him, talking about Hungary's fascinating history, sharing lots of laughs over a great meal. Then, it was off to our hostel. Being new to the whole hostel thing, I didn't know what to expect. It was fine until about 4am, and then the toilet decided to start flushing continuously (every 11 seconds, in case you were wondering). Well, I guess 4 hours of sleep was enough! I was the first to take a shower in the morning, and...it...was...freezing. I shivered in a corner, splashing water onto myself, and then, just about as I was going to turn off the water, it became scalding and I literally jumped out of the stall! The morning was spent site seeing, though, and boy, there are some impressive things to see in Budapest. And, while that may be, I ultimately found the city to be a bit grim. The rain didn't help, but so much of the architecture is a remnant of the unstable post-war regimes that ruled the government. The brutalist style buildings were oppressive, and everywhere. Not being economically prosperous, many structures are in disrepair, and there is a tangible feeling of great struggle in the air. Life in Budapest mustn't be easy, and it doesn't seem like a very happy place to live. It has its moments of grandeur, but overall, it has a lot of work to battle through before it can stand on par once again with western Europe's cities, a testament to it's troubled recent past.
The food in Hungary is awesome, by the way - and they give you SO much! Having lived in Austria for a month now, I had nearly forgotten what spice was like, but Hungary sure fixed that. Paprika is in everything, and especially because the weather was dreary, it was a welcome ingredient. In this one restaurant, we were served bread and something that looked similar to bruschetta, except that it was made of ground hot peppers. My mouth was on fire until the next course came, but so good! Goulash, palacsinta (meat-stuffed crêpe), stuffed cabbage, mmm! Before the long train ride home to Salzburg, we ate at the famous Café Gerbeaud, which is Hungary's answer to Austria's Café Sacher, where I ate the same cake and dessert wine that my father had in that very place 42 years ago - after having heard about it for so long, it was so satisfying to have experienced it myself.
In preparing for my classes this week, I received word that 1 of my classes is cancelled, and in 3 of them, the teacher will not be present and I'll have to "entertain" the Kinder. This will be fun.
This past weekend, I found myself hours away in an exotic nation, exploring a culture for the first time. Hungary shares an intimate history with Austria, having been joined in the double-monarchy, ruled by members of the Habsburg family from the mid-19th Century through the First World War. It's another country steeped in history, and with its own rich traditions. Its landscape and general feel is very different from that of Austria, and is immediately discernible upon crossing the border. It's a remarkably flat country, covered in the very grain fields that earned Hungary's reputation as the breadbasket of Central Europe. Hungarians are generally poorer than Austrians, having suffered tremendous losses to its operational power in the Treaty of Versailles, existing under the tyrannical pro-Nazi Horthy regime during the war years, and a mundane existence under the subsequent communist regimes. Though the Iron Curtain collapsed nearly 25 years ago, Hungary is still marred by its recent history, though, its trying to resurrect itself to the prosperous state it once enjoyed before the Kingdom disintegrated.
My journey began Thursday evening with a train ride to Vienna after a day of class and teaching. An early departure brought us to the quaint city of Eisenstadt in Austria's easternmost and most economically burdened province of Burgenland. After a guided tour of one of the few remaining Austrian synagogues and a walk through the former Jewish ghetto, we set out for St. Margarethen im Burgenland, previously a checkpoint between the East and West. In a historical event, the Austrian Fulbright Commission met with its Hungarian counterpart on the Austro-Hungarian border, marking the first time the two educational organizations held a joint event. Our location was significant because it was the site of the Pan-European Picnic, months before the end of the Cold War, where the border was temporarily opened. One of the men with us was actually the ranking Hungarian representative at the event, and gave an emotional account of the day's events. In one particularly poignant part, he told us of how a motorcycle carrying a couple and their two children sped towards the checkpoint with utter fear in their eyes, not knowing whether they'd make it to freedom in the West, or be stopped by the guards for not having proper documentation. As they approached, the guards turned their backs, as if they were not aware of what was about to happen, and eventually allowed hundreds and hundreds of Easterners escape to Austria. I cannot imagine the world as it must have been then - living under a regime so terrible that you were literally locked in your own country, risking being shot on any attempt to leave. Seeing those who lived through it reflect on the moment they gained their freedom, as I did with this Hungarian diplomat, can make your knees quiver. There is such emotion, such pain and such joy, in their eyes that you can't help but appreciate the freedom that we enjoy.
The next day, we toured Sopron just inside Hungary. A quiet, small city, but not really memorable. From there, we were invited to join the Hungarians on a tour of the Archabbey of Pannonhalma, a Benedictine monastery over 1,000 years old, and final resting place of the heart of Archduke Otto von Habsburg, the son of the last Emperor of Austria and King of Hungary, Karl. Then, onward to Budapest, the capital city and co-capital of Austria-Hungary. We arrived after nightfall, and wow! The city is absolutely magnificent, with all the major buildings and residences illuminated, separated by the Danube. A West Point history professor took us Austrians under his wing and guided us through the city's metro system, showing us some of the city's highlights along the way. We ended up having a nearly 5 hour dinner with him, talking about Hungary's fascinating history, sharing lots of laughs over a great meal. Then, it was off to our hostel. Being new to the whole hostel thing, I didn't know what to expect. It was fine until about 4am, and then the toilet decided to start flushing continuously (every 11 seconds, in case you were wondering). Well, I guess 4 hours of sleep was enough! I was the first to take a shower in the morning, and...it...was...freezing. I shivered in a corner, splashing water onto myself, and then, just about as I was going to turn off the water, it became scalding and I literally jumped out of the stall! The morning was spent site seeing, though, and boy, there are some impressive things to see in Budapest. And, while that may be, I ultimately found the city to be a bit grim. The rain didn't help, but so much of the architecture is a remnant of the unstable post-war regimes that ruled the government. The brutalist style buildings were oppressive, and everywhere. Not being economically prosperous, many structures are in disrepair, and there is a tangible feeling of great struggle in the air. Life in Budapest mustn't be easy, and it doesn't seem like a very happy place to live. It has its moments of grandeur, but overall, it has a lot of work to battle through before it can stand on par once again with western Europe's cities, a testament to it's troubled recent past.
The food in Hungary is awesome, by the way - and they give you SO much! Having lived in Austria for a month now, I had nearly forgotten what spice was like, but Hungary sure fixed that. Paprika is in everything, and especially because the weather was dreary, it was a welcome ingredient. In this one restaurant, we were served bread and something that looked similar to bruschetta, except that it was made of ground hot peppers. My mouth was on fire until the next course came, but so good! Goulash, palacsinta (meat-stuffed crêpe), stuffed cabbage, mmm! Before the long train ride home to Salzburg, we ate at the famous Café Gerbeaud, which is Hungary's answer to Austria's Café Sacher, where I ate the same cake and dessert wine that my father had in that very place 42 years ago - after having heard about it for so long, it was so satisfying to have experienced it myself.
Wednesday, October 10, 2012
Buona Giornata!
The one thing I didn't expect to do in Austria was learn Italian, but out of it, I think I made a friend today. Despite this country's diverse gastronomical offerings, Austria seemingly misses out on one of the foods we have back in the States that I cannot live without, namely, Locatelli pecorino romano. Without it, pasta is nothing! The food stores here only stock grana padano, which is a dry, tasteless cheese, not the brilliantly white, salty cheese I grew up on. I know, it seems like a insignificant point, but for me, it became necessary that I find it somewhere in this country. After looking high and low, I found a small Italian specialty store that I had hoped might have it. I walked into the tidy shop to find pasta, oils, preserved vegetables, wines, cured meats, and cheeses. My heart sank when I didn't see the Locatelli in the display, but I decided to ask anyway. In broken German, the old Italian behind the counter said they, indeed, had it, and went into the back and brought me a container just grated. I had told him that I didn't have money on me, and that I'd come back and purchase the cheese tomorrow. Without a moment's hesitation, he handed me the cheese and told me to bring the money when I could. I resisted, but he put his arm on my shoulder and showed me to the door - I was elated, and very grateful (haha, "grateful," get it? OK, that was bad.) I returned today to pick up a few items and to repay the man. As I was leaving, I asked him in German how to say "have a nice day" in Italian: Buona giornata, he said, and then, he asked me how to say the same in English (I already had to explain to him why I didn't know how much cheese to get in grams). It pretty much made my day, and even though it was a bit expensive, its become my de facto Italian food establishment, just for the atmosphere.
I've realized that saying "have a nice day / schönen Tag" has probably been the most satisfying thing I can say here. In this part of the world, salutations are formalized and expected. Upon entering any closed place where there are others, like an office or a shop, one is greeted with "Grüß Gott" and expected to repeat the phrase. Exchanges nearly all end the same way, "danke schön, bitte schön," and I've found that if I part by saying "have a nice day," it throws a wrench in people's plan - they stop, make eye contact, repeat it to me, and in my experience, all smile. It's a common phrase to utter when back in the U.S., and again, in my experience, it has never been said to me without provocation. For whatever reason Austrians don't use it, they are certainly happy to have it said to them - a pleasant, subtle, and wholly unexpected nicety. My German is far from fluent, and almost on a daily occurrence, I have some difficulty communicating, but I think that as long as you take your time, think, breath, and smile, (don't forget some creative hand gestures), the other person will be able to figure out what it is you're trying to say - that, in and of itself, has been an adventure and a learning experience. On the other hand, though, I nearly passed for Austrian, which made me really happy! I was sitting in my favorite café here, and ordered something to drink and a piece of cake, reading a Stefan Zweig novel in English. As I was about to head out, the waiter asked me why I wasn't reading the book in German, to which I said I was American and reading it in German would most likely give me a headache. He then told me that my German was so articulate that he had taken me for an Austrian - yes! (Please, know that's not the case with most things I say in German - I just have a lot of experience with ordering coffee!)
It's cold and raining. It seems like we've gone from summer directly to the end of autumn, without that nice two month cooling down period. The weather's been fairly dreary, and on my first real day off, I realize that I need to make better use of my free time. I am sure that those feelings will last only for a fleeting moment, though. Tomorrow I start class at Uni. I've enrolled in a master's level seminar on a video memory project chronicling the experiences of Holocaust witnesses, both victims and perpetrators, which one of my academic affiliations here started, and who, not-so-coincidentally, offers the course. There are so many fantastic resources here in Salzburg from which I can collect my research. It's so exciting to be studying in a new academic field. Essentially every aspect of what I'm doing here is untapped, waiting for someone to start looking into it. There are about a dozen researchers (professors and students) working within Austria on my topic of Holocaust memory, and I have met most of them. They're just a close-knit group, all collaborating to present a truthful history of Austria's presence and involvement in the actions of the Third Reich. I know this year is going to be fruitful in jumping into the field, and I am thrilled to be in the middle of where it all happened, working with the people spearheading the project.
I am in the middle of my first week teaching in the high school, and I think this experience, too, will offer lots of space for growth and knowledge. For the majority of my classes, the teachers asked that I prepare a short introductory presentation, and to answer students' questions about myself and life in the States. I am amazed at the students' command of the English language, and their inquisitiveness in regards to the United States. Being here, I realize just how influential our way of life is to these people, especially the young ones. American entertainment, news, politics, values, and symbolism are widely known and discussed here. A majority of students say they watch only American sitcoms and listen only to American musicians - I was astounded. For one of the classes yesterday, I was asked to teach a 100 minute lesson on the U.S. elections, and the Electoral College. Let me tell you, these kids knew more about the U.S. political sphere than I'd wager most Americans know! It was great, though, because they were highly informed and engaged, and it made for an awesome discussion, particularly about the first presidential debate. I showed them a PDF of my absentee ballot, and they could not believe that the candidates names were on there - they were taught that on election day, Americans vote only for the electors of the College, which was a challenging difference to correct.
The United States Army "liberated" the province of Salzburg mid-1945, and occupied this area of the country for 10 years before it was handed back to the newly reformed Austrian government. It's military governor during that time, Harry J. Collins, eventually married a native Salzburger and lived out his days here as an honorary Austrian citizen. Today, his grave can be visited in the picturesque cemetery behind St. Peter's Archabbey in the shadow of the Festung Hohensalzburg. American tourism, mostly in part to The Sound of Music, has been a cornerstone of Salzburg's revenue. I asked the students if they liked all the American tourists, and if they really like learning about the U.S., to which the consensus was that if all things of American origin left Salzburg, they wouldn't live here, which I thought was a bold, bold statement. I'm still undecided if that's a good thing, or a bad thing.
Speaking of The Sound of Music, though, a few days ago Austria sponsored what was called the "Long Night at the Museum," in which most museums around the country were opened at night until 1am. For few bucks, we explored the former archbishop's palace, the Residenz, as well as a geological museum by the university, and the Panorama Museum, which featured an expansive exhibit on the 1965 classic, complete with a live performance by the current theater production's cast of the most popular songs, which, although quite kitschy, was a lot of fun.
Tomorrow night, it's off to Vienna for an excursion with Fulbright to Hungary. We'll be meeting the Hungarian Fulbright students for a visit to some post-war memorials, as well as sightseeing in a Baroque border city, a palace, an abbey, and then on to Budapest, which I'm most excited to visit, especially after getting some great tips from a friend here.
Until next time, buona giornata!
I've realized that saying "have a nice day / schönen Tag" has probably been the most satisfying thing I can say here. In this part of the world, salutations are formalized and expected. Upon entering any closed place where there are others, like an office or a shop, one is greeted with "Grüß Gott" and expected to repeat the phrase. Exchanges nearly all end the same way, "danke schön, bitte schön," and I've found that if I part by saying "have a nice day," it throws a wrench in people's plan - they stop, make eye contact, repeat it to me, and in my experience, all smile. It's a common phrase to utter when back in the U.S., and again, in my experience, it has never been said to me without provocation. For whatever reason Austrians don't use it, they are certainly happy to have it said to them - a pleasant, subtle, and wholly unexpected nicety. My German is far from fluent, and almost on a daily occurrence, I have some difficulty communicating, but I think that as long as you take your time, think, breath, and smile, (don't forget some creative hand gestures), the other person will be able to figure out what it is you're trying to say - that, in and of itself, has been an adventure and a learning experience. On the other hand, though, I nearly passed for Austrian, which made me really happy! I was sitting in my favorite café here, and ordered something to drink and a piece of cake, reading a Stefan Zweig novel in English. As I was about to head out, the waiter asked me why I wasn't reading the book in German, to which I said I was American and reading it in German would most likely give me a headache. He then told me that my German was so articulate that he had taken me for an Austrian - yes! (Please, know that's not the case with most things I say in German - I just have a lot of experience with ordering coffee!)
It's cold and raining. It seems like we've gone from summer directly to the end of autumn, without that nice two month cooling down period. The weather's been fairly dreary, and on my first real day off, I realize that I need to make better use of my free time. I am sure that those feelings will last only for a fleeting moment, though. Tomorrow I start class at Uni. I've enrolled in a master's level seminar on a video memory project chronicling the experiences of Holocaust witnesses, both victims and perpetrators, which one of my academic affiliations here started, and who, not-so-coincidentally, offers the course. There are so many fantastic resources here in Salzburg from which I can collect my research. It's so exciting to be studying in a new academic field. Essentially every aspect of what I'm doing here is untapped, waiting for someone to start looking into it. There are about a dozen researchers (professors and students) working within Austria on my topic of Holocaust memory, and I have met most of them. They're just a close-knit group, all collaborating to present a truthful history of Austria's presence and involvement in the actions of the Third Reich. I know this year is going to be fruitful in jumping into the field, and I am thrilled to be in the middle of where it all happened, working with the people spearheading the project.
I am in the middle of my first week teaching in the high school, and I think this experience, too, will offer lots of space for growth and knowledge. For the majority of my classes, the teachers asked that I prepare a short introductory presentation, and to answer students' questions about myself and life in the States. I am amazed at the students' command of the English language, and their inquisitiveness in regards to the United States. Being here, I realize just how influential our way of life is to these people, especially the young ones. American entertainment, news, politics, values, and symbolism are widely known and discussed here. A majority of students say they watch only American sitcoms and listen only to American musicians - I was astounded. For one of the classes yesterday, I was asked to teach a 100 minute lesson on the U.S. elections, and the Electoral College. Let me tell you, these kids knew more about the U.S. political sphere than I'd wager most Americans know! It was great, though, because they were highly informed and engaged, and it made for an awesome discussion, particularly about the first presidential debate. I showed them a PDF of my absentee ballot, and they could not believe that the candidates names were on there - they were taught that on election day, Americans vote only for the electors of the College, which was a challenging difference to correct.
The United States Army "liberated" the province of Salzburg mid-1945, and occupied this area of the country for 10 years before it was handed back to the newly reformed Austrian government. It's military governor during that time, Harry J. Collins, eventually married a native Salzburger and lived out his days here as an honorary Austrian citizen. Today, his grave can be visited in the picturesque cemetery behind St. Peter's Archabbey in the shadow of the Festung Hohensalzburg. American tourism, mostly in part to The Sound of Music, has been a cornerstone of Salzburg's revenue. I asked the students if they liked all the American tourists, and if they really like learning about the U.S., to which the consensus was that if all things of American origin left Salzburg, they wouldn't live here, which I thought was a bold, bold statement. I'm still undecided if that's a good thing, or a bad thing.
Speaking of The Sound of Music, though, a few days ago Austria sponsored what was called the "Long Night at the Museum," in which most museums around the country were opened at night until 1am. For few bucks, we explored the former archbishop's palace, the Residenz, as well as a geological museum by the university, and the Panorama Museum, which featured an expansive exhibit on the 1965 classic, complete with a live performance by the current theater production's cast of the most popular songs, which, although quite kitschy, was a lot of fun.
Tomorrow night, it's off to Vienna for an excursion with Fulbright to Hungary. We'll be meeting the Hungarian Fulbright students for a visit to some post-war memorials, as well as sightseeing in a Baroque border city, a palace, an abbey, and then on to Budapest, which I'm most excited to visit, especially after getting some great tips from a friend here.
Until next time, buona giornata!
Saturday, October 6, 2012
A Bit of Culture
At least for Americans, there is one word that encapsulates Bavaria, evoking images of beer, lederhosen clad men, dirndl wearing girls, communal merriment, blue and white flags, busty maidens with fists full of overflowing steins, and brass bands: Oktoberfest. And let me say, sometimes the stereotypes nail it right on the head!
A group of six of us, fitted in our newly purchased --and at what a price (!), impulse buy-- Trachten, took an early afternoon train to Munich, about two hours northeast of Salzburg. Once there, the costumed masses lead the way to the fairgrounds. I cannot describe how overwhelmed I was upon arrival - people everywhere! I expected it to be crowded, but was certainly not prepared for what we encountered. Disney in August, Rome during Holy Week, Inauguration on the Mall, and a football match in Buenos Aires have nothing on this place! The grounds are set up so that on either side of a central avenue are the famed brewery tents, with smaller, specialized vendors interspersed about. Behind the tents stood amusement rides which, considering how they're constructed and destructed within a period of three weeks, were wildly impressive. In order to buy beer, one must be sitting at a table, and, with an average of 7,000,000 visitors each year, that is no easy feat! With no luck getting in at Augustiner or Schottenhamel, we decided to wait in "line" at Hacker-Pschorr, which was really just a mass of people congregated upon the threshold of the tent, kept at bay by some of the most incredible bouncers I've ever seen. For obvious reasons, crowd control was a primary concern by the organizers, and further admittance was barred until the tent had more fully cleared out. The entrance was between two vendor shacks, spanning a width of perhaps thirty feet. A few bouncers paced this distance, repeatedly asking the ever-encroaching crowd to stay behind the tape. More than a few people tried to run under the tape when the guards were looking the other way, and, had this been back in the States, I would have thought that they were just lucky and now get to enjoy the celebration, but NO, like manic Gestapo in all those movies, these guards race after them, jumping over people like gazelle and literally, literally throw these people out. The first time was terrifying, and afterwards, I think we all prayed that once they caught another they wouldn't decide to throw him in our direction. When they dragged a poor soul towards us, we scattered like cockroaches in light so that he wouldn't hit us on his way out - my nine lives ran out after about an hour, when some guy was thrown so forcefully, he nearly took off my left arm. An important lesson learned - never, ever mess with Germans.
Upon hearing our of slim prospect of gaining admittance, we hit the road one again in search of our table and beer. We stumbled upon Spaten's beer garden, which, too, was mobbed. However, after about a minute of walking around, trying to find a table, one of the girls heard a seated group speaking English, and as they were just finished, they agreed to head out and let us have the table. Sitting after three hours - yay! We had a terrific spot outdoors, under the magnificent autumnal sky, and enjoyed so many good laughs over beer. I like our little group immensely, and I'm rapidly growing comfortable with them and more freely open up to them, which feels wonderful. Took a sleepy train ride back to Salzburg, and arrived early in the morning, ending such a great day. I think we all had so much fun, and I'm sure that throughout the year, it will only get better. Another life goal checked off the list!
In other news, I've successfully met with nearly all of the teachers at my school. I was somewhat intimidated when I received news that I was assigned to a technical school, because I know essentially nothing about the stuff, but when I spoke with the teachers about what they would like for me to cover in the lessons, I sighed of great relief. I'll have to do a bit of research on America politics (I knew I'd have to succumb eventually), but some of my others topics are: Hemingway, Fitzgerald, and Steinbeck, U.S. History, International Travel, Stereotypes, and Culture - very, very happy about the selection, and the teachers with whom I'll work have, thus far, been tremendously friendly and supportive. On top of that, I scheduled my first few weeks of class. There are so many English classes that, by mid-November, I still will have not visited with all of them. My "mentor" teacher is great. When making the schedules, I asked that in addition to free Thursday afternoons for my Uni seminar, I'd like to have a whole day off each week. He said, "No. You will have 2 days off a week!" He studied and taught in a small city between London and Cambridge and said that one of the most important aspects of living abroad, if not the most important, was exploring the world and cultures around oneself, and I think I could live with that mandate. :-)
It's simply gorgeous outside. The sun shines, the air is warm, and the colors of nature are shouting out with all their might. A picture couldn't do this place justice. It is overwhelmingly beautiful, and like I've said before, it's beauty appeals to all the senses. I think I'll go for a walk along the Mönchsberg, with panoramic views of the Altstadt on one side, and the majestic Alps across the German border on the other.
Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness,
Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun;
Conspiring with him how to load and bless
With fruit the vines that round the thatch-eaves run
- "Ode to Autumn," Keats
A group of six of us, fitted in our newly purchased --and at what a price (!), impulse buy-- Trachten, took an early afternoon train to Munich, about two hours northeast of Salzburg. Once there, the costumed masses lead the way to the fairgrounds. I cannot describe how overwhelmed I was upon arrival - people everywhere! I expected it to be crowded, but was certainly not prepared for what we encountered. Disney in August, Rome during Holy Week, Inauguration on the Mall, and a football match in Buenos Aires have nothing on this place! The grounds are set up so that on either side of a central avenue are the famed brewery tents, with smaller, specialized vendors interspersed about. Behind the tents stood amusement rides which, considering how they're constructed and destructed within a period of three weeks, were wildly impressive. In order to buy beer, one must be sitting at a table, and, with an average of 7,000,000 visitors each year, that is no easy feat! With no luck getting in at Augustiner or Schottenhamel, we decided to wait in "line" at Hacker-Pschorr, which was really just a mass of people congregated upon the threshold of the tent, kept at bay by some of the most incredible bouncers I've ever seen. For obvious reasons, crowd control was a primary concern by the organizers, and further admittance was barred until the tent had more fully cleared out. The entrance was between two vendor shacks, spanning a width of perhaps thirty feet. A few bouncers paced this distance, repeatedly asking the ever-encroaching crowd to stay behind the tape. More than a few people tried to run under the tape when the guards were looking the other way, and, had this been back in the States, I would have thought that they were just lucky and now get to enjoy the celebration, but NO, like manic Gestapo in all those movies, these guards race after them, jumping over people like gazelle and literally, literally throw these people out. The first time was terrifying, and afterwards, I think we all prayed that once they caught another they wouldn't decide to throw him in our direction. When they dragged a poor soul towards us, we scattered like cockroaches in light so that he wouldn't hit us on his way out - my nine lives ran out after about an hour, when some guy was thrown so forcefully, he nearly took off my left arm. An important lesson learned - never, ever mess with Germans.
Upon hearing our of slim prospect of gaining admittance, we hit the road one again in search of our table and beer. We stumbled upon Spaten's beer garden, which, too, was mobbed. However, after about a minute of walking around, trying to find a table, one of the girls heard a seated group speaking English, and as they were just finished, they agreed to head out and let us have the table. Sitting after three hours - yay! We had a terrific spot outdoors, under the magnificent autumnal sky, and enjoyed so many good laughs over beer. I like our little group immensely, and I'm rapidly growing comfortable with them and more freely open up to them, which feels wonderful. Took a sleepy train ride back to Salzburg, and arrived early in the morning, ending such a great day. I think we all had so much fun, and I'm sure that throughout the year, it will only get better. Another life goal checked off the list!
In other news, I've successfully met with nearly all of the teachers at my school. I was somewhat intimidated when I received news that I was assigned to a technical school, because I know essentially nothing about the stuff, but when I spoke with the teachers about what they would like for me to cover in the lessons, I sighed of great relief. I'll have to do a bit of research on America politics (I knew I'd have to succumb eventually), but some of my others topics are: Hemingway, Fitzgerald, and Steinbeck, U.S. History, International Travel, Stereotypes, and Culture - very, very happy about the selection, and the teachers with whom I'll work have, thus far, been tremendously friendly and supportive. On top of that, I scheduled my first few weeks of class. There are so many English classes that, by mid-November, I still will have not visited with all of them. My "mentor" teacher is great. When making the schedules, I asked that in addition to free Thursday afternoons for my Uni seminar, I'd like to have a whole day off each week. He said, "No. You will have 2 days off a week!" He studied and taught in a small city between London and Cambridge and said that one of the most important aspects of living abroad, if not the most important, was exploring the world and cultures around oneself, and I think I could live with that mandate. :-)
It's simply gorgeous outside. The sun shines, the air is warm, and the colors of nature are shouting out with all their might. A picture couldn't do this place justice. It is overwhelmingly beautiful, and like I've said before, it's beauty appeals to all the senses. I think I'll go for a walk along the Mönchsberg, with panoramic views of the Altstadt on one side, and the majestic Alps across the German border on the other.
Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness,
Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun;
Conspiring with him how to load and bless
With fruit the vines that round the thatch-eaves run
- "Ode to Autumn," Keats
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