Mutual Understanding

A late politician from Arkansas once said, "Educational exchange can turn nations into people, contributing as no other form of communications can to the humanizing of international relations."  Over the past 7 or so months, this man's words and aspirations have become realized in my experience abroad.  Senator J. William Fulbright, for which the program is named, sought to establish global peace through mutual understanding by means of research and cultural immersion.  It sounds rather bland and abstract when it's put that way, but I've grown to recognize just how strong an impact I have had on the people of Austria, and reciprocally, they on me.

This weekend, all the participants in the program, Austrian scholars, students, and language assistants heading for the United States in August, and the American scholars and students here in Austria, gathered in a quaint Alpine village in Salzburgerland for the annual Fulbright Seminar on American Studies.  We all arrived not knowing what to expect of the weekend.  I was placed in a room with two Austrians, both of whom will pursue degrees in the U.S. come autumn.  The seminar revolved around lectures by professors on topics as varied as blues in Bernstein's music, marriage and migration, misconceptions about the Civil War (which was fascinating), and the 'Eurovision' phenomenon and why it hasn't caught on back in the States.  It was great to see these experts talk about their passions - their eyes glowed, they spoke dynamically, and they had a command on their topic.  The rest of the time was devoted to break-out sessions discussing various Austro-American topics like gender, music, history, and finally, education in the U.S. for the preparing Austrians.  For me, the most valuable parts of the seminar were the unscheduled ones.  Staying awake into all hours of the night, chatting with my Austrian roommates about everything under the sun, including, most interestingly, the different views we might have on the same topic, particularly the ones that seem outstandingly clear if the other had been from either American or Austria, such as patriotism, travel, etc.  Patriotism and Travel.  In October I had written about how nationalism and patriotism are inseparably linked here in Austria, which consequently disallows patriots from outwardly expressing love for country for fear of being labeled national socialists.  While that may be a valid assessment, it only serves to explain Austria's behavior, and not that of the United States.  What of us?  Do flags, national colors, elevation of the military, patriotic songs define 'normative' patriotism?  An Austrian at the seminar said that America's sense of patriotism is over the top. An American countered with the example of Austria, to which the Austrian offered a counterexample, Switzerland - a nation who's enjoyed democracy for 500 years, yet, they do not express patriotism like the United States does.  In fact, no one could supply a country whose patriotism outdoes that of America.  The Austrian answered that, perhaps because of the fact that for the past 200 years, the United States has not enjoyed a single 20 year spree of peace, that is, the United States is militarily involved in conflict at least once every 20 years, that the people of the United States have constructed a narrative of patriotism to support troops, to give reason to the fighting and for confronting the hardships of war by seeing them as a fight for our country, for our very livelihood.  It was something I, as an American, had never heard before, and I found that perspective mind-blowing.  Secondly, one of my roommates asked me why a large majority of Americans have never left the country and prefer to vacation somewhere at home.  After a minute, I tried to answer.  I asked him where he and his family go on vacation.  He said to Spain for the beaches, to Asia for the jungles.  I told him, "Think of how big the United States is."  We have mountains taller than the Alps, the hemisphere's hottest deserts, thousands of miles of coastline, millions of square acres of rolling hills and fields in the Midwest, several of the world's largest lakes, the glaciers of Alaska, the rain forests and volcanoes of Hawai'i, islands in the far Pacific, and in the Caribbean, the world's tallest forest, and nearly every other conceivable landscape, and we never have to leave our own country to see them all.  Being an immigrant nation, and having large, historic architectural influence from the nations which colonized the land, England, France, and Spain, one can hear Spanish in the South, French in the north, and visit structures hundreds of years old, again, without leaving home.  I'm not arguing that Americans shouldn't travel (I'm a big, big proponent of the opposite!), but I think that helps to explain why so many Americans never leave home.  Cultural immersion, language, cuisine, and perhaps an affinity for history seem like some of the few reasons why Americans might want to leave, but otherwise, their desires are satisfied without ever requiring a passport, and that sure seemed to have satisfied my roommate.  

The last evening, they showed a 'surprise' film, The Third Man, which happens to be one of my favorites.  It stars Joseph Cotten, Trevor Howard, and Orson Welles, and takes place in an immediately post-war Vienna.  It expects a certain level of knowledge from the audience, showing the riveting 'four men in a jeep' concept without explanation, which represents how Vienna was divided into four sectors after the war for each of the four major Allied victors.    Carol Reed's use of shadow and light is sublime, and the screenplay is brilliant.  My favorite aspect of the film, and I'd argue, perhaps it's greatest, is Karas' score, written entirely for the zither, juxtaposes lighthearted music traditionally heard in Viennese wine bars with violence, deception, and ruin - it's a masterful foray into the Groteske, and work extraordinarily well for the film.  I've seen it at least a dozen times, and my heart still races along with the intensity.  

Less than two months of teaching left, and only three more months of research to go.  It's cold...still.  On my way to Mass this morning, it was snowing.  It's April.  All's not dull and dreary, though!  I've befriended a young priest at the Church where I attend Mass, and he was telling me about his only visit to the U.S....to Montana.  He was blown away by an American BBQ, and literally talked about it for a solid five minutes.  On the other hand, he's noticed me the past few months, and asked me if I'd like to learn how to serve the old form of the Mass that they celebrate in this Church, which is in Latin and quite different to what I'm experienced with in the U.S.  The lesson will be in German, but he said I'll be on the schedule in no time, which is really exciting!  I've planned a trip to both Hamburg and Madrid to be reunited with two of my friends from last semester, and I'm really, really happy to be able to spend some time with them.  Also, two of my friends from back home, including my best friend, solidified their plans to join me over here in Austria for 2 weeks in May, and we're already planning things to do and places to visit.  Fun.  The next few months are going to be fun, and, once Salzburg gets it's act together and shows us some spring-like days, the time'll fly.  It'll be quick, now!