Thursday, November 15, 2012

Autumnal Face

Ever feel that the more you want time to remain still, the quicker it fleets away?  I get that feeling a lot.  Yesterday, unbelievably, marked 2 months since I've been here in Europe, +1 day since I've last seen home. Where has it gone?  What have I accomplished in that time?  Have I made the most of this experience thus far?  What will the future bring?  

Until recently, I had always been a forward thinking person - planning what was to come with incredible detail.  And, you know what? - most times, my plans didn't materialize.  My expectations for what this year abroad was going to be like, so far, have been completely different from what I've experienced, and all for the better.  We have no control over time, and in many circumstances, we have very little control over how our life paves its winding path.  And I think, finally realizing that, that life will happen whether it is planned or not, is one of the most satisfying and calming things I've ever actualized.  Having accepted that, each new day is truly an adventure, waiting to be explored, waiting to be written in the story of one's life.  In the past two months, I've grown as an independent person, I've visited with nearly 1,000 students, I've traveled to 3 countries, I've integrated into a different culture, I've learned a lot, I've seen some incredible things, I've climbed 4 mountains, I've eaten in far too many cafés (everyone's allowed a vice, right?), and I've made more than a handful of friendships with wonderful people, which I am confident will last beyond our time here together.  All in all, life is good.  It continues to get better with each sunrise, and with every delectable slice of cake (may have a problem developing).  

This week was administrative week for sure.  Planning my class schedule through Christmas, finishing graduate school applications, soliciting letters of recommendation, writing letters and postcards, starting my seminar project, and catching up on some reading. I found myself in one of several libraries in my off hours, reading interviews with Jews who suffered familial loss immediately after the annexation in '38, and some of the stories are so brutal, that on several occasions I had to leave for a walk.  This field is not light reading, and there's very rarely something optimistic.  I spent a lot of my time indoors this week, which, in hindsight, was a really good thing, because we hadn't yet been paid since arrival, and pennies saved (and, that is a literal expression here) barely lasted until today's much anticipated paycheck.  


"No spring nor summer beauty hath such grace
As I have seen in one autumnal face."
Elegy XI: The Autumnal - J. Donne

Living with such focused attention this week, I hadn't realized that the city of Salzburg had transformed into what promises to be a spectacular Christmas wonderland.  Lights and evenly spaced ornaments adorn nearly every street and building in the Altstadt, evergreen trees dot the many squares, the stalls for the famous Christmas markets have been erected and await the thousands of visitors who will find that special gift made by one of the local craftsman.  The ice skating rink on Mozartplatz opened last weekend.  Roasted chestnuts and Glühwein are sold from cart vendors, people are becoming excited with Christmas anticipation, and there are only two more Sundays until Advent.  I've only seen pictures of European Christmas markets, but seeing just the preparation now, I fully know that it will be a magical thing to behold.  Cannot wait!

My students are opening up to me, and every day at least one person puts up his hand in the hallway for a high-five, and many know my name.  There is no hope of me learning all of their names, but it's nice to recognize a face on the bus, or wave to a student walking home from class.  Yesterday, inevitably, I was asked by one of my classes to go to a beer hall with them before Christmas.  They're 16 years old.  I told them I'd consider their invitation - totally don't know how to correctly respond to that!  Last night the other U.S. student and I met an American professor on the Fulbright in southern Hungary for dinner.  Really interesting research going on there, and it was nice to talk a bit about the field of education, Bond, and Downton Abbey with a fellow fan.  Today was productive, but really relaxed.  I had the day off, and researched in the morning, then met with two friends for coffee and cake in one of Salzburg's best, Café Tomaselli.  I walked the small mountain behind the Altstadt on my way to meet a classmate, to work on our project.  Tonight, being the payday, will be a celebration with the other TAs.  Tomorrow, it's off to Vienna after class.  Hoping to catch a performance at the Staatsoper and a few beers with an Austrian friend, then meeting a new friend the next morning at my favorite café in Vienna, followed by a tour of "Beethoven's opera house," and the opening of the Karlsplatz Christmas market before taking an evening train back to Salzburg.  Lucky doesn't begin to describe it...


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