Back Again

Liebe Grüße aus Salzburg!  Once again I find myself in the city of Mozart, of once-mighty archbishops, of empty Churches and tired façades, among busy people, both native and stranger, lost in a whirlwind of culture, intellect, and that ever so typical Austrian Gemütlichkeit in the heart of Europe.  The Alps stretch powerfully upward, capturing the magnificence of the morning rays – their bases engulfed in verdure and life.  And as the sun rises, the bells of countless steeples sound the beginning of a new day.  The crisp mountain air carries that mouth-watering aroma of freshly baked bread, and proud shopkeepers are quick to clean their storefronts, preparing for the day’s business.  Wolfgang’s immortal art is ever present, and the strain of a forgotten waltz lingers on the ear.  A thoughtful walk through the gardens reveals such articulate beauty, that one cannot deny the existence of God.  More than anything, Salzburg is a city of feelings.  Its power overwhelms you, engulfs you in its story.  It’s a world unto itself, forever preserved in the hearts and minds of all who understand its allure.

I am here again to study and work, but this time around, it feels so different.  The whole concept of living abroad, at least for awhile, is so important, I feel.  In abandoning all the comforts of home, one is obliged to adapt, to persevere, to grow, and ultimately, to understand who he truly is.  It is only through reaching one’s most primal level that he is fully able to comprehend what he’s made of, and where he’s going, and, for me, that’s what I’m most looking forward to – the next big step in my life. 

I came here alone, but right away I feel at home.  Being familiar with the city helps, but life here might be awfully lonely were it not for the other assistants.  There is a wonderful group of about a dozen Americans and Brits who join me on this journey (and they’re all pretty girls, too! :-)), and I think we’ve hit it off and are in for an extraordinary adventure. 

In many ways, this marks my first exploration into the ‘real’ world, the world of grown-ups and that of the rest of my life, and, I have to say, it is an experience underscored by ambivalence.  My life as I knew it, my family and friends, my networks and comforts, stand ten hours away.  The very day I left to come to this wonderful place, my little brother left for the cesspool of the Earth, fighting for our freedom.  The question of being isolated and simultaneously charged with responsibilities and tasks is daunting, intimidating at times, but challenging and providing opportunity to better my appreciation for who I am, for where I’ve come from, and for those I love.  It is a crux of everything, really – a final test to see who comes out victorious, the boy or the man. 

That all being said, ten months is a long time to figure that all out, which means there’s plenty of time for fun and games!  With the exception of one night, each time we’ve gone out to dinner, I have ordered Wiener Schnitzel…no regrets.  Fried meats, cured meats, cold meats, hot meats – meat’s pretty much a staple, no, the staple of Austrian cuisine.  I jump on a salad if it’s on the menu – anything for vegetables.  Thank the Lord for all this walking, because I would otherwise gain a tremendous amount of weight with all the pastries and cakes eaten.  Cooking in a substandard ‘kitchenette’ has been a real trip.  It pushes all techniques of the culinary arts to their basest level, and even then it might be a grade above what I’m capable of producing on my ‘stove.’  C’est la vie. 

In some sense, it seems like I’ve been here forever already.  It’s only been two weeks, but so much has happened within.  Arrived in Salzburg via Heathrow and Munich, mad dash to complete paperwork and stock the accommodation, then off to Vienna for a week for Fulbright orientation.  That was really a terrific week.  The staff has proven incredibly resourceful and friendly.  The other researchers are so diverse, and bring so much promise to the table.  I enjoyed being with them immensely, and the orientation itself was a brilliant reintroduction to Austria and Vienna, a city I adore.  Like Salzburg, Vienna has a personality – it is dominated by culture, and I could just soak that up until I die.  A Strauss opera at the Staatsoper, a mélange and Esterhazytorte (or two…or three…oops) at the eternal Café Landtmann, and, without failure to mention, Wiener Schnitzel.  Our time at orientation culminated with a trip to the Wachau Valley, Austria’s premier vineyard region, complete with a wine tasting and a climb to a castle ruin high above a Baroque village.  Sehr schön.

Then, back to Salzburg for the weekend before heading off to orientation, round II.  Took a three hour bus ride to the middle of nowhere, but wow (!), a gorgeous middle of nowhere.  Met a lot of colorful characters, Americans and Brits, and learned how to kind of do whatever it is I’m getting paid to do.  I learned a lot about things I could try, and about things I definitely will not attempt!  It was a nice experience, though, and I did get to spend a lot of classroom time with my fellow Salzburgers.  That Wednesday, someone had the bright idea to go on a hike, which, for the first 20 minutes, was actually quite enjoyable…and then the path ended.  Do we go back and find another path?  Do we go back down?  No, we go up, straight up.  Drenched in sweat, sucking for air, asthma attacked, muscle fatigue, and general misery were about all that was going on at the point I clambered to the summit.  Never. Again.  The next night, however, I actually spent an hour dancing (I know, I know, but really!).  Did more dancing than at prom (okay, not a high standard to beat, but for me, I was proud), and thoroughly enjoyed it!  Then, returned to Salzburg for good.

Work started yesterday.  This high school’s student population rivals that of my university – it’s massive!  Walked in.  Got lost.  Got directions.  Got lost again.  The place is a maze, and it just never ends.  My supervising teachers are just wonderful, though!  A few of them are near retirement, but one’s just a few years older than me, and we get along swimmingly.  This week, my sole task is to meet all 27 English teachers.  Tracking them down has proven quite difficult, but I have through Thursday to accomplish my mission – challenge accepted.  I was asked by one of the teachers to plan a lesson on some offensively long technical, German word, which was later translated into English for me, and I still could not understand it (way to put the kid who can’t turn on a smart phone into an advanced technology school ;-)).  On the up side, I was already invited on a class trip…to Ireland!  Don’t know if I’ll be able to go yet, but I became excited! 

And right now as I type, after a few dismal days, the sun shines brightly, pouring through my windows, bathing my room in warmth.  Ah, it’s going to be a good year!